Frame To Frame – Bob and Jean

Cross-Country skiing in Algonquin Provincial Park

Fen Lake X-ski Trail - Algonquin Park - Ontario

The Fen Lake cross-country skiing trail in Algonquin Provincial Park, in Ontario, sets off through the hardwood bush and is comprised of 3 different loops so skiers have a choice of the distance they wish to ski.  With the trail having been groomed and track-set the day we were there, we anticipated a fantastic outing!

Bob on the Fen Lake x-ski trail - Algonquin Park - Ontario

The mercury sat at -10 Celsius when we set out, so the conditions were perfect.  Brilliant sunshine warmed our faces, and there was no wind to disturb the snow-laden trees.

Jean on the snowy Fen Lake Ski Trail - Algonquin Park - Ontario

The hardwood forest was a literal winter wonderland.  I had never seen it so beautiful.  With each branch, bough and twig supporting a thick layer of snow, the woodland was transformed into an enchanting paradise.  We frequently stopped to revel in the views and to take a few pictures.

Jean x-country skiing in Algonquin Park - Ontario

At times, it felt as though we were skiing through a long tunnel because the undergrowth alongside the ski trail was so laden with snow that it hindered visibility into the depths of the forest.  Overhead branches literally bent low with their burden.

Snowy corner - Fen Lake Trail - Algonquin Park - Ontario

Here, I felt like I was cross-country skiing into the scene on a Christmas card.

This video that Bob filmed gives you some idea of what I am talking about.

Tree tops and blue sky - Fen Lake Ski Trail - Algonquin Park - Ontario

The cerulean sky drew our eyes upwards where it was possible to see through the forest canopy, and sunshine shimmered off  the crystalline blanket of snow.

Snowy tunnel on - Fen Lake Ski Trail - Algonquin Park - Ontario

At times, we had to crouch low as we glided beneath low-hanging branches.

tiny cones - Algonquin Park - Ontario

These tiny dried seed heads resemble pine cones but were the size of my little fingernail.

Gateway Creek - Fen Lake Ski Trail - Algonquin Park - Ontario

Gateway Creek flows alongside the cross-country skiing trail for about 4 kilometers, although it is not always visible.  In some sections, the vigorously flowing water has kept the creek open despite the brutally cold temperatures of late.

Emergency barrels - first aid kit - matches - duct tape - fire starter - Algonquin Park - Ontario

It was reassuring to see that provisions have been made for skiers who might become injured on the trail.  Bob noticed numerous animal tracks around the first-aid barrel because animals, out of curiosity, had come to investigate.

Emergency barrel under snow covered trees - Fen Lake Ski Trail - Algonquin Park - Ontario

Animal tracks in snow, Fen Lake - Algonquin Park - Ontario

Bob and I achieved the cabin around 11 a.m., but before entering the warm confines of its 4 walls, we ventured down to the shore of Fen Lake on the off-chance that we might see an animal.  Instead, we found only tracks disappearing into the distance where a lone wolf had traversed the lake from one end to the other.

Jean on Fen Lake - Algonqiun Park - Ontario

Animal tracks on Fen Lake - Algonquin Park - Ontario

From whence the wolf came…

Fen Lake ski cabin & outdoor privy - Algonquin Park - Ontario

The humble warm-up shelter is cozy on the inside with benches built around the perimeter of the space facing the pot-belly stove.  Skiers before us had built a fire in the stove so the space was inviting when we entered into the dimly-lit room.

Jean at Fen Lake ski cabin - Algonquin Park - Ontario

Basic emergency supplies are made available to skiers…toilet paper, matches and maps…and a good supply of wood is stacked beside the hut, protected from the weather by a roof.

Jean and Bob at Fen Lake ski cabin - Algonquin Park - Ontario

After a small snack, Bob and I signed the Guest Book before continuing on our way.

view out window of Fen Lake ski cabin - Algonquin Park - Ontario

Looking out the cabin window to the next stretch of the cross-country skiing trail…

Cabin Trail - Fen Lake Ski Trail - Algonquin Park - Ontario

The beauty of the snowy forest continued to amaze me as I rounded each bend in the trail.

Chickadee on Fen Lake Ski Trail - Algonquin Park - Ontario

A short distance beyond the warm-up shelter, Bob and I elected to ski the Ridge Trail where there is a good bit of climbing required and excellent rides down fairly sloping stretches.  It was at this point in the day when we began to see the odd Black-capped Chickadee.  Up until that time, the forest was silent with nary a bird stirring.

Snowy forest in Algonquin Park

As I usually ski ahead of Bob, I paused frequently to scan the trees and sky for birds.  On one such occasion, I had looked back behind me, and then, when turning to face forward again, I caught sight of a big bird swooping in from my right.  It promptly landed about 40 feet in front of me about 30 feet up in a tree.  My first thought was that it was a hawk, but I was soon proven wrong.

Great Grey Owl sitting on tree

I was ecstatic when I realized that a Great Grey Owl was staring back at me.  I knew that sightings had been made in Algonquin Park over the past week or two, but those were nowhere near this area of the park.  I observed the owl cautiously, trying to avoid eye contact, but when Bob skied up behind me, the owl took flight and disappeared beneath the veil of snow and tree branches.  I suspect that the squeaking of my ski poles or the squelching of my ski boots had attracted the owl from a nearby wetland that was visible through the distant trees.

Meadow on Fen Lake Ski Trail - Algonquin Park - Ontario

Bob and I actually skied the Fen Lake Trail twice that weekend, on two subsequent days.  The only real difference was that the second day was very much colder with the mercury sitting at -28 Celsius, and a fresh dusting of snow had added to the accumulation on every horizontal surface.

Pileated Woodpecker holes in Algonquin Park tree - Ontario - January 2013

It was on our second outing that Bob and I spotted a substantial pile of fresh wood chips at the base of a tree.  We knew that Pileated Woodpeckers had recently been there since the chips lay on top of the newly fallen snow.

Pileated Woodpecker - holes in tree - Algonquin Park - Ontario - January 2013

Pileated Woodpeckers make substantially larger holes in a tree than the smaller species of woodpeckers, and judging by the number of holes in this tree, it is obviously a favored source of food.

Two female Pileated Woodpeckers one above the other, Algonquin Park - January 2013

A short while later, when I stopped on the trail to listen for any telltale bird noises, I heard, off to my left, the unmistakable sound of two woodpeckers drumming away at a tree.  I knew there were two birds because the tenor of each drumming sound differed from the other.  I also was pretty certain that the source was Pileated Woodpeckers judging by the intensity of the pecking.  The screen of snow-covered branches hid the birds from my view, but Bob soon picked them out on a distant tree and took a few photos.

Snow over Algonquin Park - Ontario

After Bob and I completed the ski trail, we decided to drive further into Algonquin Park to take full advantage of our Day Pass.  From the Visitor’s Center nearer the East Gate, we had a lovely panoramic view of the winter landscape.

Algonquin Park - Ontario - Canada - January 27, 2013

The sky, by that point in the day, had a threatening look to it, and within minutes, a snow squall began to obliterate the distant tree line.

Highway 60 - Algonquin Park west gate entrance

And so, leaving the West Gate of Algonquin Provincial Park behind us, we returned to Oxtongue Lake where we were staying for the weekend.

Frame To Frame – Bob and Jean


  • I am planning my Algonquin ski trip for next year right now and it looks like I’ll be in for a treat. Have you done the Leaf Lake Trail? Fantastic wildlife sightings. I saw a wlf this year just after skiing in eastern Manitoba – a real thrill.

    • Yes, Bob and I skied the Leaf Lake Trail late last winter. It is amazing! I love the panoramic view from the emergency warmup shelter at the furthermost point on the trail. How exciting for you to see a wolf when skiing in Manitoba! I can only hope to have that experience one day.

  • Very cool…we have just been inspired! I see a trip to Algonquin next weekend!

    • I am so glad that our story inspired you. Did you actually get up to Algonquin this past weekend? We were in the area these past few days although we skied near Oxtongue Lake instead on this visit.

  • Great work guys, timing is everything in the wild. That was such a beautiful weekend, cold , clear and dry!!!

    • You got that right! We often will return to a location in hopes of seeing, for a second time, one of the birds or animals that we have previously spotted. It never fails that the bird or animal is nowhere to be seen. That is what makes it so rewarding when we do happen upon something new.

  • Great shots! If you are interested in coming up to ski in the park again this winter, March 2nd on the Leaf Lake trails there will be an event with researchers and park naturalists talking about wildlife, and research done in Algonquin Park! More details here

    • thanks for the invitation. We had intended to join you as we were up at Oxtongue Lake that weekend, but my wife was feeling a little under the weather. I hope that your event was successful. Alternately, we drove up to Algonquin Park, to the Visitors’ Center, and subsequently hiked the Spruce Boardwalk Trail across from there. We ran into several birders at the Visitors’ Center and over on the trail. Perhaps they had been amongst your attendees. We’ll hope to make it next year.

  • Excellent read and a joy to see some great photos.
    You’re wildlife encounters are to be envied, good for you two!
    Thanks 🙂

  • What a fantastic outing! Each year we talk about skiing again in Algonquin – your photo essay has inspired us to make the effort.

    • We, ourselves, only manage to ski in Algonquin Park two or three times a winter, but it is always a very beautiful experience. I hope you manage to get out on the trails there, too.

  • Amazing!! This must have been a great thrill.

    • For me, the act of skiing, in itself, is a great thrill, but add into that a wildlife sighting, and it makes for a perfect outing. I think, over the years, we have learned to slow down a bit, take quiet breaks and be more observant. This has resulted in more bird sightings and perhaps even more appreciation of the surroundings.

feedback welcome