Rich Nautical Nostalgia in Bowness-on-Windermere, England
Moving further into England’s Lake District after hiking up Wansfell Pike put Bob and me at the heart of Lake District National Park. Our family savoured a delightful lunch on the patio of our next lodgings with gourmet terrines, fruit, cheese and pastries that we bought from a deli shop in Ambleside. Duly nourished, we walked down to the harbour-side pavilions at Bowness Pier, and what a sight that was to behold. The rich nautical nostalgia in Bowness-on-Windermere really struck a chord with Bob and me.
Had we stepped back in time to the early 1900s? Bob and I were agog at the beautiful vessels plying the waters of Lake Windermere. Competing for attention were a good number of Mute Swans drawn to the shore by tourists keen to feed them.
Windermere is home to Windermere Jetty Museum that houses a boat collection from bygone eras. It is remarkable that the Museum makes available for use so many of their carefully restored boats. We took great pleasure in watching the comings and goings of the vessels for hire such as this one, Muriel II, a passenger launch setting off for a tour of the Lake.
Perched on a high bank overlooking Bowness Bay is the Belsfield Hotel in a remarkable 6 acres of landscaped gardens. Snuggled up to the wharf was a more modern launch, Miss Lakeland, waiting for its next load of sightseers. This cruise boat is capable of carrying over 170 passengers.
Being the central hub for cruises on Lake Windermere, Bowness Pier was hopping! Tourists seeking a tour of Lake Windermere can book a boat trip with Windermere Lake Cruises. They offer cruises of varying lengths depending on how much time you have to take in the scenery.
Fully restored wooden heritage boats touring Lake Windermere create an atmosphere of yesteryear. This diesel-powered yacht, MV Tern, was first powered by steam when built by Forrest & Son in Essex in 1891. It was converted to diesel power in 1956.
Leaving the picturesque village of Bowness-on-Windermere behind, each tour boat heads off to delight visitors with the stunning mountain views along the shores of Lake Windermere. With so many options of transport, there are boats to accommodate the scores of holidaymakers. We passed on a tour on MV Teal preferring a more intimate experience.
Vickers of Barrow built MV Teal in 1936. Sections of the ship were transported to Lakeside via rail and then assembled. This tour boat can accommodate 533 passengers. As Bob and I watched MV Teal returning to the pier, we thought it was high time to get out on the water ourselves.
The rich nautical nostalgia even extended to those boats available for hire. The shoreline and jetties were lined with scores of wooden motorboats and wooden rowboats.
Bob rented a lovely cedar-stripped motorboat for an hour’s cruise around the harbour, but after only a 5-minute ride, the motor conked out. I hailed a young couple returning towards the dock in their launch, and they solicited help on our behalf. There were no oars or life jackets available on board.
Impatient as we were to be rescued, we attracted the attention of another boater who offered to tow us in to shore, but in the meantime, the rescue boat came to our aid. After several attempts to right the motor, the operator admitted that he would have to tow us back to the dock.
In light of the mishap, we were able to bargain for a larger boat with a roof, but sitting inside of it was unbearable due to the noxious exhaust fumes. The three of us had our heads poking out above the front portion of the cabin in order to breathe. I’m sure passersby thought us quite strange.
One of the longer boat tours that people can book provides the opportunity for onboard guests to see the southern end of Lake Windermere, while a slightly shorter cruise takes guests on a scenic journey to Ambleside.
With dramatic views of the Eastern Fells, Bob and I were quite happy to simply motor around Bowness Bay. Fairfield Fell has the highest summit seen here in the centre of the hills, and it sits at the top of the valley north of Ambleside.
Continuing our circuit around Lake Windermere’s Bowness Bay, we had panoramic views of Low Pike, a smaller fell that joins Fairfield Fell.
I was snap-happy taking many photographs of the gorgeous old boats putting slowly along the shore. We wondered if other passengers were as impressed with the nautical nostalgia as we were. All of us certainly were enjoying the peaceful calm of Lake Windermere.
MV Swallow was a particularly attractive launch. William Warburton commissioned this steam-powered launch in 1911. This magnificent boat still retains most of its original material though the boiler is a replica.
Motoring back towards Bowness-on-Windermere, we gained a different perspective of Belsfield Hotel Windermere. Boaters back in 1845 might have been lucky enough to glimpse Baroness Von Sternberg who used to call this home.
By the time Bob sidled our motorboat up to the dock, Muriel II had returned from her guided tour and was tied to the wharf affording us a closer look. As a passenger vessel, Muriel II can hold 61 people. This launch was built in 1935 by Barwick & Sons of Windermere, and it has been meticulously restored and maintained as have all of the heritage boats.
Like so many other vessels, Miss Lakeland was preparing to dock. The afternoon was waning, and the multitude of tourists were dispersing.
Bob and I agreed that it had been very satisfying to see such a burgeoning interest in preserving the local nautical history. It made our experience of boating on Lake Windermere really memorable. We also came away with a huge appreciation for the wonderful craftsmanship that went into building and refurbishing the vessels.
Frame to Frame – Bob and Jean