As Bob and I drove through Northern Cape, we were delighted to come upon vineyards growing grapes that supply the rich raisin industry in South Africa. The Orange River that bisects Northern Cape supports the cultivation of vast numbers of vineyards for both wine, table grapes and raisins.
As we made our way cross-country in the direction of Kakamas, Bob and I started to notice changing land use practices. Initially, wire fences bordered acreages for kilometres on end. The land seemed wild and unproductive.
As we cruised along through the semi-arid desert plain, we drew closer to the Orange River. When hectares of grape vines and significant numbers of citrus orchards materialized alongside the road, the reason for all the fencing became evident.
Western Cape and Northern Cape are the main wine producing provinces in South Africa. Northern Cape Province also has the distinction of being the main production area for raisins. A good 90 percent of the country’s annual raisin production takes place in the Northern Cape province.
We soon came upon a building owned by The Raisin Company, one of the major raisin processors in South Africa. Thompson Seedless Raisins account for about 55% of the total production.
In the same community, dozens of drying mats made of hessian were laid out. Grapes would be placed upon these to dry in the sun. The weather in Northern Cape is ideal for both growing and drying grapes. Sun drying grapes into raisins is the most common method because it is cost effective and quicker than other methods. The hot dry conditions are perfect for getting the ideal quality of raisins.
Some farmers use netted strips that are raised about 400-500 mm off the ground allowing good air circulation rather than a previous method of laying grapes on cement slabs. This eliminates the need to turn the raisins partway through the drying process.
Of the miles and miles of manicured vineyards and orchards, some had each thrush of grapes or respectively each piece of citrus fruit bagged in individual white sacks to protect against pilfering by the birds .
Harvesting of citrus fruits in the Northern Cape is conducted in mid-November. Those fruits grown are Valencia and Navel Oranges, Lemons, Limes and Star Ruby Grapefruits. We passed through the area in late November, and the crop of fruits was almost ready to be picked.
We interrupted our journey by visiting Augrabies Falls National Park where the Orange River has carved a deep gorge into the rocky mosaic.
It being a Saturday, Bob and I noticed lots of activity as we passed through the villages. A colourful arrangement of freshly-laundered clothing filled a lengthy clothesline.
Further on, despite the 40-degree temperature, a soccer game was underway. A group of young men playing full out on a dirt field resulted in clouds of red dust blowing in the wind. Quite a gathering of people was present to watch the game.
Again, evidence of local raisin production was seen in large tracts of cleared land where cement slabs covered the soil. These are a step up from the original method of drying grapes on areas of flat rocks, the more traditional way of drying grapes.
About 1,250 sultana-grape growers in the Northern Cape Province produce three raisin types, Sultana raisins, Golden raisins, and Thompson seedless raisins. These raisin types rank among the best in the world resulting in Northern Cape’s reputation for having a rich raisin industry.
To get the desired colour and flavour of certain types of raisins, the process of drying the grapes varies somewhat. To that end, a collection of wooden racks bordered some of the properties.
Even with these wooden racks, the drying process may differ. Some growers suspend the grape vines with the grapes still on them. This facilitates the movement of air, and no turning of the fruit is required. A protective covering on the racks is employed in the event of a rain event or to protect from sun scorch during the most critical stage of drying. This technique of shade drying achieves better quality and colour of the raisins.
On other racks, wire netting would support the grapes. In both instances, less ground space is needed to dry the grapes than when using cement slabs or netting on the ground. The drying rate, however, is a little slower than the sun-drying method.
Even at that, rack-dried grapes still may require a few hours in the full sun as part of the finishing process. We were fascinated to learn all of this regarding the raisins that we purchase and enjoy. This rich raisin industry has led to South Africa becoming the world’s third-largest raisin producer.
The Orange River is a meandering artery that stretches through the beautiful, red-soiled scrubby territory providing life and respite from Grootdrink in the east and as far as Kakamas in the west. That explains the proliferation of vineyards that are cultivated and irrigated in that region of the Northern Cape.
Bob and I enjoyed the beautiful landscape as we drove the last stretch to Upington. The terrain with its great ridges and mountains of red rock resembled those that we’ve seen in Peru and Arizona.
Our lodging in Upington was at LeMust Premier Hotel. An impressive garden complete with palm trees, water features, flowers and numerous cats all combined to create a welcoming tropical retreat.
A Grecian pool filled one private corner of the garden inviting us to take a dip.
Steps from one of the garden rooms lead down to the river where we observed scads of waterfowl.
Robert and I lounged in the garden overlooking the river relaxing with our books and a refreshment while listening to myriad bird songs.
Like ourselves, a happy family was taking advantage of a weekend day to wile away the afternoon at the edge of the Orange River. Life was definitely good!
Frame to Frame – Bob and Jean