Saturday, June 29, broke damp and chilly in Prince Albert National Park, Saskatchewan, only 12° Celsius at 6 a.m. To make use of the morning, Bob and I drove up to Kingsmere Lake then decided to walk the scenic Narrows Peninsula Trail near Waskesiu Village. It is known for impressive Ostrich Fern beds along the boardwalks.
With rain threatening, Narrows Peninsula Trail seemed like a good option because it is a short 3-kilometre loop. We looked forward to searching for the old fur trading post that once existed on the peninsula.
Centuries ago, before the area became designated as Prince Albert National Park, Cree and Chipewyan tribes lived in harmony on this land. It was their favourite hunting and fishing ground around Red Deer Lake. Years later, Dr. E.R. Trippe, a hunter who frequented the area and built a hunting lodge on Waskesiu Lake, suggested preserving the land as a National Park.
Prince Albert National Park is located on high land about 1,800 feet above sea level. Reflecting that, the Narrows Peninsula Trail soon emerged at a steep decline. I was grateful that a wooden staircase was provided to ease our descent. In total, there were 105 steps on this slope alone.
Another extended stretch of stairs met us where the other ended. Views of Waskesiu Lake would later be enjoyed since the trail descends to lake level as it follows the peninsula extending into the Narrows of the Lake.
It was important to Bob and me to show great respect for this area of traditional territory of the Woods Cree, Plains Cree, Dakota, Dene, and Métis. I could imagine them decades ago stealthily moving through this woodland while on the hunt for game.
Bob and I were keeping our ears and eyes open for wildlife, but the first thing that captured my interest was some flora.
An abundance of Western Canada Violet sporting pale white blossoms grew in clumps on the shady forest floor.
The sign at the trailhead mentioned impressive Ostrich Fern beds covering vast swaths of the forest floor. I was not prepared for the extensive display of lush, green fronds.
The atmosphere was akin to Jurassic Park with fern fronds reaching out to touch us as we meandered by. The rich forest habitat provided the perfect growing conditions, and the ferns benefited hugely. The Ostrich Fern fronds were tall and grew so densely that the earth beneath them was totally hidden.
To protect the vulnerable rhizomes of the Ostrich Ferns, boardwalks are used extensively across the fern beds. Ostrich Fern growth peaks in mid-summer, and we were there at the perfect time to appreciate their verdant beauty.
I always love when trees form a natural arch that beckons you forth into the unknown. I can only imagine what lies ahead and feel like I’m passing through a portal into the beyond.
In this case, it was like a massive cloud had been hanging over us and suddenly gave way. The canopy opened up briefly revealing a metal grey sky before the winding boardwalk carried us once again into deep shadows.
With the earth beneath our feet growing damper, Bob and I realized that we were nearing Waskesiu Lake.
Where Bob and I emerged within view of Waskesiu Lake, the trail was still on slightly higher ground. Prince Albert National Park lies on high land between the North Saskatchewan River to the south and the Churchill River to the north. Waskesiu Lake like most of the lakes and streams in the Park gradually drains into the Churchill River.
Waskesiu Lake was named by the Cree with a word that meant “elk”. Europeans referred to Elk as Red Deer, and through mispronunciation of the Cree word, the name evolved to Waskesiu and the lake known as Red Deer Lake. The Cree name was first recorded in 1912.
Balsam Fir trees populate the sides of the trail as it veers away from the shoreline going towards the end of the peninsula.
It was dizzying to look skyward into the tops of the soaring trees. Some of the Balsam Firs are close to 200 years old!
Though the number of tree species is limited within Prince Albert National Park, healthy forest cover is assured because of dense reproduction. Owing to the drier conditions of the peninsula in Waskesui Lake, Jack Pine and Balsam Fir are the common trees.
Our eyes were searching the forest floor for evidence of the old trading post. The way I understand it, a trapper by the name of Stevenson acted independently as a trader in the area. In an effort to assume supremacy over Stevenson, the Hudson’s Bay Company erected a temporary post on Waskesiu Lake about 3 miles away from Stevenson’s place of business. While the forest lies quiet today, the peninsula was a bustling hub for the fur trade in the 1880s.
The rolling trail through the forest of Balsam Fir was leading to a lookout near where the bustling trading post had stood. The Hudson’s Bay Company erected their fur trading post in the winter of 1886-1887 to oppose Stevenson’s business that was thought to be affiliated with a competitor of the Hudson’s Bay Company, Stobbart & Company.
How delightful it was to emerge onto a stretch of the trail through a sprawling patch of Velvetleaf Blueberry plants. We are accustomed to a bountiful crop of blueberries in Algonquin Provincial Park in Ontario, but the habitat where they grow is considerably different, a dry field where regular controlled burns occur.
Although our timing was perfect to catch the Ostrich Ferns at peak growth, June was too early to find ripe berries on the Velvetleaf Blueberry plants. In another month or so, the wildlife would reap the benefit of the fruit here.
When Bob and I finally reached the shore of Waskesiu Lake, what we found was a pair of Adirondack Red Chairs situated with a view of the Lake. These Red Chairs are part of a Parks Canada initiative to position chairs at strategic scenic locations within their national parks.
We could see how the location would have been appropriate for a fur trading post, but try as we might, we found no clues as to its original location. The Hudson’s Bay Company operated their trading post for a few short years because there was a decline in the abundance of animals trapped in the area. Greater fur fields existed to the north and west of the Park, and trappers began abandoning the Red Deer (Waskesiu) area.
We were pleased that the area of Waskesiu Lake surrounding the peninsula was very quiet; all we heard was the whisper of waves. That allowed for quiet observation of some waterfowl that drew near among the reeds.
I was enamoured with the squiggly patterns created on the surface of the water by the wispy reeds. This to me was a fine example of nature’s abstract art.
Strolling along Waskesiu Lake seemed idyllic. The lake was tranquil as purported to be, and off in the distance we could see people water skiing and fishing. Waskesiu Lake is the most developed lake in the park, and with resorts along stretches of its shoreline, recreational activities are pursued by visitors.
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When I noticed a spot of red on the ground, my breath caught in my throat. I thought it was blood from some injured creature. Upon closer inspection, I was relieved and delighted to realize that I was looking at a Beetberry plant.
This was a new plant to Bob and me, and it was only later that we learned the red fruits are edible. We missed our opportunity to sample them! It was interesting to learn that indigenous people used the juice from these fruits as dye, and the leaves and roots are also edible. Fascinating!
Narrows Peninsula Trail passes through a variety of habitats while following the peninsula that makes up the narrowest part of Waskesiu Lake.
About midway on our hike, Bob and I followed the trail across the peninsula to the east side. Just offshore, a perturbed Franklin’s Gull gave chase to a Raven.
Satisfied that the Raven had abandoned its quest, the Franklin’s Gull assumed a perch from which to keep an eye on its territory. Chances are that a nest with young hatchlings was nearby, and the Raven was likely attempting to steal the young.
Looking skyward, I didn’t know whether to focus on the clouds of flying insects or the flock of Pelicans that were silhouetted against the white clouds. American White Pelicans breed in Saskatchewan, and around Prince Albert National Park, we had been seeing scores of them.
In the warm shallows, a patch of Marsh Calla Lilies had taken foothold, their white spathes glowing in the dim light. Still, the sun had refused to shine, but that did nothing to diminish the beauty of these striking bog plants.
Tucked beneath some damp vegetation, a Wood Frog sat calmly in the belief that it was well hidden.
A bright spot on the forest floor was a patch of Marsh Marigolds requiring no sunshine to project their brilliance in the otherwise green surroundings.
Our morning had been well spent learning a bit about the history of the area. We did see a wide variety of flora and the occasional creature beyond what I’ve mentioned here. It had taken us from 11 a.m. to 12:30 to complete the trail, and we were ready for lunch. It was time to head back to our cabin.
Frame to Frame – Bob and Jean