Our Bumpy Ride to Monteverde

At the end of a week staying in La Fortuna, in Costa Rica, it was time for Bob and me to move on.  We were looking forward to a guided bird tour in the Monteverde Cloud Forest Biological Reserve among other things.  It was a bumpy ride to Monteverde, but the scenery enroute was gorgeous!

Our days in La Fortuna drew to an end under torrential rain making it easier for Bob and me to leave that part of Costa Rica.

To mark the end of our stay at Kokoro Lodge, the manager treated us to a buffet dinner.  With rain persisting the next morning, we looked forward to the 80° Fahrenheit temperature predicted for Monteverde.

All we had to do was get there.  The route would be scenic since it skirts Lake Arenal a good share of the way, first running west along the north shore, then bending around the western end of the lake to continue in a southeasterly direction.

Storm damage from the previous day’s downpours was a common sight as Bob navigated the roads.  Road 142 runs west curving around Arenal Volcano and would eventually lead us to Tilaran south of Lake Arenal.

It was about an hour into our drive when the mist coating our windshield evaporated under the warmth of the sunshine.

The distance for us to travel was 183 kilometres (114 miles).  We were told that the drive could take upwards of 4 hours with a 4×4 vehicle.  We had an SUV so were all set for the journey.  The fact that going by bus could take 8 hours spoke to the road conditions we might face.

Road 142 had a well maintained asphalt surface that was predominantly flat.  Sliding along with nary a care, Bob and I delighted in the vistas surrounding us.

Rolling fields of farmland epitomized the definition of a bucolic setting.

Betraying the volcanic origins of the country’s past was an endless series of conical hills.

Verdant growth filled the valleys between the steep hillsides.

Some sections of Route 142, a secondary national road, were very narrow, but a couple of wider spots allowed for motorists to pull off and photograph the scenery.  I believe one pull-off was called Hummingbird View.

The lookouts provided welcome respites from the confinement of the car.  No amenities were provided at these roadside stops.

Until we reached Tilaran, Lake Arenal was continually within view attesting to the size of it.

With a length of about 30 kilometres and sitting at 5 kilometres wide, its watery surface was visible even as Road 142 veered away from it on the approach to Tilaran.

It required about 1.5 hours to reach Tilaran.  From there, we turned onto Road 145.  It becomes quite sinuous as it cuts through mountainous terrain.  Finally, Lake Arenal fell out of view.

Bob and I were still confident finding our way.  Road 145 was gravel and dirt, conditions that we are quite familiar with when exploring lesser-travelled areas in our home province of Ontario, Canada.

The fun began when we were required to turn onto Road 606.  This is where the drive became a bit more challenging.  On top of the increasing incline, large rocks and potholes required skilled driving to negotiate some of the tighter curves.  Taking our minds off the bumpy ride to Monteverde was knowing that we were drawing closer to our destination.

We were so grateful to be driving a 4×4.  Holy cow!  On one hill, a Jeep and half-ton truck in front of us could barely achieve the ascent.  We had to make two stabs at the grade before we had success.  It was a rutted slope covered in loose rocks.

Steep cliffs and a narrow road surface did not mean that guardrails were employed for vehicular safety.  In fact, rocky embankments with intimidating drop-offs had me white-knuckled some of the time.

The last stretch of roadway improved significantly.  An unexpected delight was when two White-faced Coatis ran across the asphalt in front of our vehicle.

The closer we got to Monteverde, the better the weather.  We were even blessed with a rainbow.

Enduring such a bumpy ride to Monteverde gave no opportunity for photos of the road conditions.  It was a relief to arrive under a sunny sky, but it was deceiving.  A heavy mist was driven ahead of a fierce wind that is fairly constant there.  The hoped for 80°F was a chilly and humid 63°F.  Nevertheless, Bob and I opted to spend the afternoon around the pool.

We had earned a refreshment and savoured the relaxed atmosphere to unwind.

The next morning, we had to be up at 4:50 a.m. for our second guided bird hike, this time in the Monteverde Cloud Forest Biological Reserve.  Having already observed clouds covering the uppermost regions of the forested slopes, we knew we had to be prepared for anything.

Frame to Frame – Bob and Jean